APR and Points: What You Pay for a Lower Rate

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When you shop for a mortgage, you will hear lenders talk about two numbers: the interest rate and the Annual Percentage Rate, or APR. The interest rate is the basic cost of borrowing money, shown as a percentage. The APR includes that interest rate plus other fees and costs that come with getting the loan. One of the most common ways those extra costs show up is through something called “points.” Understanding how points work and how they affect your APR can help you decide whether paying extra upfront is worth it for a lower monthly payment.

Points are a type of prepaid interest. One point equals one percent of your loan amount. For example, if you are borrowing $200,000, one point costs you $2,000. When you pay points, you are buying a lower interest rate from the lender. This is sometimes called “buying down the rate.” The idea is simple: you pay more money at closing to save money on interest over the life of the loan. The APR captures this trade-off because it spreads the cost of the points across the entire loan term, giving you a more complete picture of what you are really paying.

Let us look at a real-world example. Suppose you are offered a 30-year fixed-rate mortgage at 6.5 percent interest with zero points. Your monthly payment would be about $1,264 on a $200,000 loan. Now imagine the lender offers you the same loan but at 6 percent interest if you pay 2 points, which costs $4,000. Your monthly payment drops to about $1,199. You save $65 each month. It will take you about 62 months, or a little over five years, to recoup the $4,000 you paid upfront. If you plan to stay in the home longer than that, paying points could be a smart move. If you plan to sell or refinance within a few years, paying points might not be worth it.

The APR is calculated by taking the interest rate and adding the effect of the points and other loan costs, then expressing that total as a single annual percentage. So in the 6 percent rate with 2 points example, the APR would be higher than 6 percent—maybe around 6.3 or 6.4 percent—because the $4,000 in points is added to the total cost of the loan. Lenders are required by law to show you the APR so you can compare different loan offers more fairly. One loan might have a lower interest rate but more points, while another might have a slightly higher rate but no points. The APR helps you see which one actually costs less over time.

However, the APR has limits. It assumes you will keep the loan for the full term, which for a 30-year mortgage is the entire 30 years. Most people do not. They move, refinance, or pay off the loan early. In real life, the true cost of paying points depends on how long you actually have the mortgage. The APR also does not include every possible fee. Things like appraisal fees, credit report fees, and title insurance are sometimes included, but not always. Lenders vary in what they count. So while the APR is a useful tool, it is not perfect. You still need to look at the full Loan Estimate document and ask your lender exactly what fees are included in the APR calculation.

Another point to understand is that lenders sometimes offer “negative points,” where you get a credit at closing in exchange for accepting a higher interest rate. That is the opposite of buying down the rate. In that case, your APR will be higher than the rate because the credit lowers your upfront cost but increases your monthly payments over time. This can be helpful if you have little cash at closing and want to reduce your out-of-pocket expenses.

When you compare mortgage offers, do not just look at the interest rate alone. Look at the APR, and ask the lender to show you how many points are involved. If two offers have the same APR, that does not necessarily mean they are identical. One might have lower closing costs but a slightly higher rate, while the other has higher points but a lower rate. Your choice depends on your cash situation and how long you expect to stay in the home.

A good rule of thumb is to ask yourself: Can I afford the points now? And will I be in this house long enough to make back the money I spent? If the answer to both is yes, paying points can save you thousands of dollars over the life of the loan. If you are not sure, you might be better off taking a no-points loan with a higher interest rate. That way you keep more money in your pocket today, and if you move or refinance, you have not lost anything.

Finally, remember that points are sometimes tax-deductible as mortgage interest, but you should talk to a tax professional about your specific situation. The key takeaway is that APR is your best friend when comparing loans because it forces you to see the full cost, including points. Do not let a low interest rate trick you into paying too much upfront. Use the APR to see what you are really paying.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Eligibility varies by lender and loan type. Conventional loans (those backed by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac) are commonly eligible. Loans that are often ineligible include FHA loans, VA loans, USDA loans, and some jumbo or portfolio loans. The first step is always to contact your mortgage servicer to confirm your loan’s eligibility.

Potentially, yes. While your initial monthly payments are lower, you are not reducing the debt. Over the full term, you will pay more in total interest compared to a repayment mortgage because you are paying interest on the full loan amount for a much longer period.

Itemizing: You list out all your eligible individual deductions (including mortgage interest, state and local taxes, charitable contributions). You choose this method if the total of your itemized deductions is greater than the standard deduction.
Standard Deduction: A fixed dollar amount that reduces your taxable income. For 2023, it’s $13,850 for single filers and $27,700 for married couples filing jointly. Many taxpayers now find the standard deduction is more beneficial than itemizing.

Loan officer compensation is generally not allowed to be directly tied to a loan’s specific interest rate or terms (due to regulations like the Loan Originator Compensation Rule). However, their overall commission plan is based on the total revenue of the loans they close, which is influenced by the rates and fees the lender offers.

Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) is typically required on conventional loans with a down payment of less than 20%. It protects the lender if you default. You can request to cancel PMI once your loan-to-value ratio reaches 78% (based on the original value), and your lender must automatically cancel it at 78% if you are current on payments.